Tassie Twelve Years On – Heading home

I dragged myself away from the coast and across to the Midland Highway, known as the Heritage Highway because of all the heritage towns and villages along the way. I popped into some, for old times sake.

My favourite is Ross. Under military guard from 1812, to protect travellers and local settlers from the ever-present bushrangers, it later developed as a base for the local garrison, along with the Ross Female Factory, a prison for female convicts in the years between 1848 and 1854. The prison is now an historic site and I really recommend a visit. It’s  fascinating learning how the women lived and worked out their sentences. They weren’t all under-the-thumb, so to speak, as you may have expected from convicts. There were some really interesting goings-on, which is good to know.

On entering the town, you’re greeted by an avenue of elm trees, flanked by original stone cottages and stores. So pretty.

Ross

The town is centred on the crossroads of Church and Bridge Streets, known as the Four Corners of Ross, each corner having a label: Temptation – Man O’ Ross Hotel; Recreation – Town Hall; Salvation – Catholic Church; Damnation – Gaol.

Town Centre-Four Corners of Ross

My favourite part of town is the exquisite sandstone Ross Bridge.

Ross Bridge

Commissioned by Governor George Arthur to cross the Macquarie River, it was completed in 1836, and is the third oldest bridge still in use in Australia. Its building was overseen by convict stonemasons, Daniel Herbert and James Colbeck. Herbert crafted 186 carvings to decorate the arches of the bridge. These included animals and plants, Celtic symbols, faces of local identities and, no doubt as a political expedient, Governor Arthur. He was even able to slip in his own likeness, along with that of his wife.

Evendale, just south of Launceston, is another of my favourites. Funny how you remember things. I remember a village. It has that village look but it’s actually a reasonably-sized town.

The last time I was here, I was wandering along a side street and came across an elderly lady, who told me how her husband had recently gone into Launceston Hospital for a minor procedure. When she went in the next day, she was told he was in intensive care with pneumonia. When he died they refused to give her any information as to what happened. After 53 years of marriage, she was suddenly on her own.

It was one of the saddest stories I’ve ever heard. ‘He wanted to be buried opposite the house,’ she said to me, and as I turned to go, I watched her cross the road to a little cemetery in the lawns, and lean over a little vase to adjust the flowers on his grave.

Lawn cemetery

Westbury is another village that goes way back. It even has a village green, complete with stocks.

Westbury Village Green
Village Green Stocks

I love this commemoration of Jack Babcock. Born in Exton, 10 kilometres from Westbury in 1914, he played cricket at a state level at the age of 15, eventually playing for Australia against England.

Jack Babcock Memorial
Giant stumps at the local reserve, commemorating Jack Babcock.

I stayed a couple of nights in Deloraine, a very convenient spot if you’re in the north, close to both Launceston and Devonport, with short distances to many of the tourist spots, Mole Creek Caves, in particular.

I stayed for the third time at the Mountain View Country Inn. On the edge of town, it’s cheap but completely adequate. I love looking out my window and seeing Mt. Roland rising in the distance.

Mt. Roland .

The Meander River runs through Deloraine, and it’s a lovely spot for a walk late afternoon, when you’re winding down from the day.

Meander River Walk

I had made an 11.30pm booking on the Spirit for the trip home, a first, and I wondered how I was going to fill in the time till then. But by the time I found a pub across from the terminal for a meal and then lazed around at the beach for awhile,

it was time to board. I was on the road again by 9.30am, missing the peak traffic, and home and unpacked by lunchtime.

I loved my return to Tassie after all these years. The weather was perfect, and the roads were good and not too busy, even though it was the holiday period.

Thanks to everyone who’s been following my return trip to Tassie. If anyone’s interested in more of my travels around Tasmania, my book, The Edge of the World:Next Stop Cape Horn is available in print. I also have an ebook, a pared down version (a slightly better read, I think) on Kindle.

Now, I’m off to Sydney and the Blue Mountains. Cheers.

14 thoughts on “Tassie Twelve Years On – Heading home

  1. I think the Clarendon Arms in Evandale (the pub pictured behind the statue of the guy with the penny farthing bicycle) is where March “Chopper” Read met someone shortly before he shot them and went to jail again.

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