On my third morning, I dragged myself away from Arthur River and returned to the Bass Highway heading for Launceston, detouring on the way to the gorgeous heritage village of Stanley, sitting on a slender sliver of land jutting into Bass Strait.

The Nut, a sheer-sided, flat-topped volcanic plug towers 143 metres over the town.

I stayed here on my first trip through to Arthur River, in the beautiful old Stanley Hotel. I remember looking out from the balcony and thinking if the couple of cars in the street had been replaced by a horse and cart and maybe a Cobb & Co coach, I could have been back in the 1800s.

The most special building of the lot is Lyons Cottage. The simple, single-storey, weatherboard house was the birthplace and childhood home of Joseph Lyons, a former Premier of Tasmania (1923-1928) and  Prime Minister between 1932 and his death in 1939. He was known as “Honest Joe”, for providing stable leadership during the Great Depression.

Not to be outdone, Lyons’ wife, Dame Enid, went on to become the first woman MP in Australia and the first woman appointed to federal cabinet, all while bringing up 12 children. Their family home in Devonport is open to the public and I really recommend a visit if you’re in the area. Such an amazing life they led.

The cottage is a museum now but was closed. Two trips to Stanley and I still haven’t seen inside. I’ll have to keep trying. Next time I’ll stay in the Stanley Hotel again. Nothing better than coming down for a bistro meal and a glass of red (or two), then falling back up the stairs to your room.

…

I reached Launceston in late-afternoon traffic. I had booked the motel I stayed in last time I was here in 2009, because of its easy walking distance to the centre of town, plus it offered a quick getaway out the other side of town.

The motel, The Parklane, is also opposite the very pretty City Park.
Macaque primate enclosure. It’s a bit hard to see the monkeys in this photo but they’re definitely there.

I spent two days walking the streets (so to speak). I like Launceston. It’s a very elegant-looking city, in the centre anyway, which is as far as I got.

After a poor early start, Launceston expanded into a city in the mid to late 1800s with the discovery of gold and tin, along with the 1850s gold rush in Victoria, which could account for the many, very well-to-do-looking buildings.

Just a few that I loved.

On the second morning, I discovered that a short walk on the other side of the gardens took me down to the river. Formed by the confluence of the North Esk and South Esk rivers at Launceston, the Tamar flows north and enters Bass Strait via Port Dalrymple.

It was a nice walk along the river, past old businesses and mills,

stopping at the marina for my morning caffeine fix.

Re-energised, I followed the river around to Kings Park and across to Cataract Gorge. The gorge is on the edge of the city, just a 15 minute walk from the centre. It extends for five kilometres, and is surrounded by parklands and forest.

I had taken a river cruise through the gorge last time I was here (and I can recommend that) but I was thinking this time I might do the walk from Kings Bridge around the cliffs.

Turns out the walk was closed due to a rock fall, and let’s face it, I couldn’t have walked along a cliff that steep without panicking, seizing up, and having to be rescued. Not the first time – so embarrassing. I will cure my fear-of-heights; just not there yet.

You can drive around to get in, I’ve just discovered, so that’s something for next time. My life is full of ‘next times’. I will definitely do this one, though. I feel as if I’m missing out badly.

From there, I wandered back into the city and up Brisbane Street to my motel, to spend the last part of the day relaxing in City Park, before heading out onto the road again. I’d decided on the east coast, in particular to St. Helen’s, to visit the Bay of Fires, and from then on, maybe Maria Island.