Fremantle is Perth’s port, located at the mouth of the Swan River, just 22 kilometres south of the city. I caught the train down for two days of exploring.

My main purpose for visiting was its colonial history. The Swan River Colony, as it was originally called, was the first free settler colony in Australia, meaning no convicts. But by the 1840s it was languishing, and it was decided to import male convicts as free labour. The first thing they were asked to build was their own accommodation – Fremantle Prison.

The gaol remained in use right up until 1991, and is now included on the World Heritage List. There are various tours you can do. I joined the convict tour, covering 1850 to 1886.

Almost 10,000 men were transported from Great Britain and Ireland during this time. It’s not a place I would have been happy to live in, or even spend a weekend. I’m afraid the early convicts had a rather hard time of it.

By the end of the tour it was early afternoon. The weather had been miserable since arriving in Perth three days before, and had been getting worse through the morning. After being caught in a downpour on the short distance back into town and having streams running through my one pair of runners, the sun came out, and I could see what a lovely spot Fremantle is.

I squelched my way along the restaurant heaven that is South Terrace, ending up going Australian with a not-quite-cooked hamburger, before searching out my hotel.

The Federal Hotel is a nice pub but on getting to my room, I found there was no heating – nothing to warm me up, nothing to dry off my squelching runners. I dropped onto the bed and wondered what had happened to my plans of exploring sunny, warm Western Australia.

But you don’t stay in a mood for too long when you’re on the road, so I soon threw on an extra layer of clothing and headed down to the beer garden to watch my AFL footy team (Essendon) get beaten by, you guessed it, Fremantle.

Next morning I woke to sunshine, clear blue sky and no breeze. After scrambled eggs and coffee in a very nice cafe in Market Street, I wandered up High Street to the Round House.

The Round House prison was opened in 1831, and is the oldest public building in WA. It was built to hold anyone convicted of any crime. This could include: murder, misdemeanor, manslaughter, breaking curfew (‘ticket-of-leave’ men were allowed into the town but had to be back by 10pm), sick lunatic, and killing a pig.

 

A short walk from the Round House is the Maritime Museum. I had discovered that the yacht, Australia 11 was displayed there. Australia 11 won the America’s Cup in 1983, the first time the Americans had been beaten in the 132 years of the race. I had to see it and its famous winged keel, which apparently was the reason they won. 

I really recommend the Maritime Museum. It’s terrific for all things nautical, and the kids around me were loving it. 

After a juice and some cake, I headed along Victoria Quay and back into town to wander for awhile in the sunshine, before catching the train back to Perth.

I loved Fremantle, with its 19th century buildings, its wharf areas and its history. I’ll be back before long to continue my explorations.